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Hamilton Spectator
Printed October 10, 2009
Red Canoe Makes Magic HappenJohn KernaghanThe Hamilton SpectatorWelcome a new star to the local dining firmament, Red Canoe Bistro. Chef Tobias Pohl-Weary is spinning some magic at what used to be Dante's Trattoria.I was bowled over by the creativity and attention to detail including everything from decor to service, table settings and pristine platters.Prices reflect the level of excellence and Red Canoe shoots immediately into the top grouping of restaurants spanning Spectator country.The Atlantic lobster perogies ($17) served notice that Pohl-Weary is doing some special stuff just north of the Lakeshore. The pouches were rich with lobster and the Tomme du Haut- Richelieu cheese in a sweet yellow pepper cream sauce with a sharp slaw on top.The four perogies with their silky stuffing may have been listed as a starter, but provided a main's satisfaction backed by the lush pepper cream pooled around them.One visit opened with a surprise amuse bouche of a tiny heirloom beet halved and embracing goat cheese. This light and delicate bonus sat in a splash of pumpkin seed oil with a garnish of roasted pumpkin seeds.Next up was a selection of fresh artisan breads, including whole wheat, baguette and crisps, with a red lentil and pumpkin puree.I was dining well and hadn't spent a cent yet, I noted as I took in the eye-catching setting. Mustard-coloured walls contained interesting farm-themed black and white photography, groupings of harvest vegetables with candles and crisp linens and sparkling Marie Claire cutlery.I started with a spicy organic yam bisque with poached seafood ($12) that surprised with a big marine medley led by two huge, perfectly done shrimp. Backing them up was a firm block of swordfish, three fingers of delicate perch and a sharp curl of smoked salmon.The velvety yam puree was slightly sweet and medium spiced with a dollop of creme fraiche as a visual and taste counterpart. The main of duck confit cassoulet ($25) seemed the perfect fit for the first real raw night of autumn. It was a hearty combination of dark and dense duck with crisp skin over a white-bean mix with chunks of belly bacon. Too rich perhaps, but a big tummy-warmer with a nicely crafted vegetable component of a slightly hollowed ring of squash with green and yellow beans arranged within it.From opening to end, with informed and engaging service, it was an excellent experience. Pohl-Weary's passion from age 16 and apprenticeship under luminaries such as Michael Stadtlander shine through.The look: Small and stylishThe feel: Comfortable, easygoingWhat you'll pay: The menu features starters such as a salad with Merlot-poached pears, aged cheddar and butter lettuce tossed in a Niagara Riesling vinegar for $10 and Alberta bison tartare with sherry, shallots, chili, a quail egg and toast points for $16. Mains included flash-seared swordfish with grilled corn and wasabi puree and caramelized yams for $27 as well as slow-braised beef short ribs in a dark ale jus with a prairie mustard chevre mash for $30. A tasting menu is $65 with accompanying wines for $25. Desserts range from $8 to $13.Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday to Friday, 5 to 9:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Not wheelchair accessible.jkernaghan_thespec.com905-526-3422http://www.thespec.com/article/651196
Additional articles and Reviews
are available in:
Hamilton MagazineWest of the City MagazineBurlington Snap NewspaperVoted "Best New Restaurant of 2009"Burlington PostDowntown Burlington by the LakeIn Burlington MagazineRestaurantica.comFoodinc.comand many more......Thank You All
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